Arriving in Ulaanbaatar was a shock to the senses but getting out to see some ancient monasteries and the new Genghis Khan Museum was a real bonus, a quick trip to the state department store gave us opportunity for last minute shopping before our trip.
Getting to the Orkhon was an exciting drive some of which was on tarmacked road, but a great deal was on dirt on small tracks.

Our expert drivers kept us safe and informed about the landscape around us. We stayed at a ger camp near an ancient Buddhist monastery, and we’re treated to some beautiful singing accompanied by the horse headed violin Morin Khuur... a real treat. The Ger (yurt) was comfortable with a proper bed which was unexpected…

‍
We camped riverside before getting on the river in a beautiful spot and were treated to a fire, vodka and some singing from our drivers.
Boldoo was expert in getting us all packed up to leave for our journey…
The boats were packed and we set off down the fast flowing river into a series of basalt canyons, the scenery was stunning but we had to keep our whites about us because of the fast flow.

‍
Camping by the river side was a treat for the senses in every way, dark skies and stars, the scent of wormwood on the breeze insects humming and so many wildflowers. Hard to describe the scale of the landscape which went on and on without a fence or house to be seen for miles and miles.

‍
We cooked each evening and made really lovely meals from the ingredients provided. Luckily Boldoo could translate the packaging and Chris and Dan could rustle up tasty fare. The simplicity of pulling up the canoes and stopping to camp wherever we thought best was a real treat.
Travel by boat allowed us to see so much of the landscape and wildlife with eagles and deer very common to spot.
There were so many other birds by the river too travelling along with us swans and terns.

‍
One of the highlights was seeing herds of horses crossing the river together in front of the boats or grazing as we passed by. Goats and cattle were also very common along the banks, with the occasional Ger spotted in the distance.
Boldoo was able to get us in to visit families in the Gers which was really interesting and fun… we watched as foals and mares were separated, goats were skinned and dumplings prepared as well as mates milk fermented. People were so hospitable and Ganbold was able to translate and enable us to understand the customs so we didn’t offend anyone. The Gers were warm and welcoming and full of extended family members, very hospitable.

‍
The river itself wound its way through canyons and valleys and we travelled about 300 km, as the river was moving at pace it seemed effortless to travel in this way. We were able to swim each evening and the river was warm.
Whilst we were in Mongolia, we visited the Naadam festival in Erdenet which was so interesting...

‍
Wrestling, archery and horse racing alongside the usual candy floss and people in their best traditional clothes for the occasion. We were able to wander freely and observe secure in the knowledge we were being looked after by our guides.  
We had an amazing trip and our 19 year old son found the whole culture fascinating and so far, removed from our everyday life in UK…what a treat to get away from the digital to a landscape of big skies and space.
Thanks to Boldoo and team we were able to get an insight into Mongolian life, both past and present and a glimpse of ambitions for the future...


Nuala Mulholland
Wales.UK